Leaving Brazil

There haven't been any updates for a while because for the past month I have been on the road, exploring this enormous country. I only once did I stay in a place more than five nights, and I did not bring me old compy, hence no blogging.

But now I gotta go. Back to New York. Up north, where visa restrictions force me. It's not that I am unhappy to return – quite the contrary, I am excited to see my friends and family again – but rather that I am actually afraid to. A friend of mine from Buenos Aires who studies and works full-time here in Rio said it well, "here life is a dream, man." I guess I am afraid to 'wake up.'

Not always a dream though. More like, somewhere where everywhere else is 'real life.'

Of course I will miss some things. Many things. The cultural value system, the stereotypical but true relaxed and open nature of (most of) the people, my new friends and family, and not having to wear shirts, pants, or closed-toed shoes all the time. (Full disclosure: I am not wearing a shirt right now.) But other things I will not miss, and you will learn about those if you stay tuned.

An overall impression I've got from this country is that Brazilians and Americans are similar in many ways. To address such 'big ideas' that all this travel has distilled into my brain, this here blog will now go in a new direction. It will offer a space for my reflections on Brazil after having left, and will advise future gringos-in-Brazil. Beginning with general observations and 'tips,' we will work our way towards city- and  region-specific personal reviews and advice. This may or may not be part of a larger work, depends how distracting the first world will be.

For now, know that this is probably one of the strangest, most beautiful, and most complete countries in the world. You should see all it offers while it's still wild. I will be back.

Gringo During Carnaval Photos

Rio Maracatu bloco in Ipanema

The front of the procession

The King and Queen, the best dancers, right in front of the drummers

The percussionists. Every type of person was a part of the bloco, each had a role

And then the giant beer can, or 'electric can,' that had the singers and amps

Meanwhile, across town, a bigger party was brewing...

Only a fraction of the crowd

The truck blasted the beats, with the drummers in front

Thousands of people were everywhere

There were a lot of creative costumes

The World's Biggest Shitshow

When it's calm

I went, as did a friend of mine, through the "OMG carnaval is awesome--No it is stupid and I hate it--Ok no it's really quite nice" cycle in less than twelve hours today, so I think it merits a few reflections.

As I have experienced it so far, and this has only been for about a day, carnaval in Rio is a chance for everyone to be and do everything they aren't and can't. For men to dress as women, the rich to act poor, for the poor to act rich, and for the extremely poor it offers an opportunity to pickpocket more easily. Also, the vendors jack up the beer prices.

It is basically a physical manifestation in song, dance, and public gatherings of the oh-so-Brazilian attitude of not caring about anything. And it is wonderful if you can get into the vibe, and if you like samba, huge drunken crowds, and crazy costumes. Seriously, its like the Halloween parade 24/7 for a week up in here.

The not giving a crap attitude really comes out, as everything can and will happen. A group of drummers had amassed a huge crowd in a local park, some dancing (I tried), most simply standing around shooting the shit until dawn just because it is carnaval. Taking an evening walk among them I was intentionally swerved into by a bus, saw simultaneous ER discharges fight each other, was subject to a drive-by with cans of shaving cream, and saw an old guy do a very vulgar axé dance.

The same attitude that gives you license to do whatever also is very accepting and welcoming, unlike anything I've encountered before. Standing around in a group of strangers is awkward enough in Brooklyn, Paris, Montreal or Berlin, but in Rio its different. No one cares!

My friend imagined thousands of live chickens kept in the back

During the daytime things can be little calmer, at first glance. People haven't had their naps yet, so are on the first drunk of the day. I went to a bloco (street samba party) that played samba covers of Beatles songs. It was their first year, and they were pretty good. There were babies, thugs, puking girls, hippies, old people, and everyone "all together, right now, over me." I also was near what must have been the world's largest KFC restaurant. -->

I wonder if I've been completely desensitized or what but all that, all this of my first day of carnaval in Rio, has been underwhelming. Don't know if I should blame Iguazu falls, video games, people or myself for that, but hey, here's to the next few days' revindication!

Back in Rio

Conquered Iguazu waterfalls

Hey all!

I've been MIA, traveling around southern Brazil and a little of Argentina. I'll have posts for different parts of that adventure written up over the next week if I can.

I just got back to Rio today, the day after Carnaval officially started. You can tell its partytime as soon as you step off the plane. People with funny hats drink beers while waiting for those little airport golf carts, and every non-essential business is shut down and boarded up. Blocos, or large drunken street parties, happen everywhere all the time. I'll stay away from the 8AM ones and try to be good about updating here for y'all.

Feliz Carnaval!