 |
| When it's calm |
I went, as did a friend of mine, through the "OMG carnaval is awesome--No it is stupid and I hate it--Ok no it's really quite nice" cycle in less than twelve hours today, so I think it merits a few reflections.
As I have experienced it so far, and this has only been for about a day, carnaval in Rio is a chance for everyone to be and do everything they aren't and can't. For men to dress as women, the rich to act poor, for the poor to act rich, and for the extremely poor it offers an opportunity to pickpocket more easily. Also, the vendors jack up the beer prices.
It is basically a physical manifestation in song, dance, and public gatherings of the oh-so-Brazilian attitude of not caring about anything. And it is wonderful if you can get into the vibe, and if you like samba, huge drunken crowds, and crazy costumes. Seriously, its like the Halloween parade 24/7 for a week up in here.
The not giving a crap attitude really comes out, as everything can and will happen. A group of drummers had amassed a huge crowd in a local park, some dancing (I tried), most simply standing around shooting the shit until dawn just because it is carnaval. Taking an evening walk among them I was intentionally swerved into by a bus, saw simultaneous ER discharges fight each other, was subject to a drive-by with cans of shaving cream, and saw an old guy do a very vulgar
axé dance.
The same attitude that gives you license to do whatever also is very accepting and welcoming, unlike anything I've encountered before. Standing around in a group of strangers is awkward enough in Brooklyn, Paris, Montreal or Berlin, but in Rio its different. No one cares!
 |
| My friend imagined thousands of live chickens kept in the back |
During the daytime things can be little calmer, at first glance. People haven't had their naps yet, so are on the first drunk of the day. I went to a bloco (street samba party) that played samba covers of Beatles songs. It was their first year, and they were pretty good. There were babies, thugs, puking girls, hippies, old people, and everyone "all together, right now, over me." I also was near what must have been the world's largest KFC restaurant. -->
I wonder if I've been completely desensitized or what but all that, all this of my first day of carnaval in Rio, has been underwhelming. Don't know if I should blame Iguazu falls, video games, people or myself for that, but hey, here's to the next few days' revindication!
